Slightly lift the transmission up so any downward pressure onto the transmission cross member is relieved. The next thing to do is remove the exhaust pipe section that goes between the manifold and the flange just after the catalytic converter. They should call you to let you know after the before-mentioned if you need a grind job. Make sure all the wires are disconnected from each side. Then spray a rust inhibitor to all bolts let it set and remove tail lights and poke wires out down the bottom. Chances of the crank being scored are minimal unless the engine has been run without oil. One could also choose either 2 or 4 wheel drive.
Lower it to the ground with the torque converter installed. Loosen each bell housing bolt around the front of the transmission with a ratcheting wrench, extension and socket. Remove bolts holding tranny to bell housing. Once you get the belt slipped back, examine the belt to see if it needs replaced. Such as Ford oil pans. I have there are 2 ways.
Apply oil-resistant sealer in the cavities between the bearing cap and cylinder block. Loosen the bolts that hold the transmission cross member to the transmission and vehicle. Be careful not to strip the nuts on the back of the flywheel, between the engine block and flywheel because if you do it isn't going to come off. With the pan off you can inspect the bottom end of the motor, everything looked ship shape to me. Then you can change the O-ring as well. All manual transmission have a drain plug on the transmission pan. You will then have easy access to the fill plug in the tranny case extension located directly inside the wheel well on the forward driver's side.
Use a jack to raise tranny off of the cross member and remove cross memberremove tranny. Slip the back of the belt over the tensioner pulley and release the pulley to put the belt back under tension. The tensioner pulley has a damper unit fitted to it to stop it jumping around when the engine is running. These can all be signs of engine failure. Drain the transmission fluid from the transmission by removing the transmission pan.
Remove the bolt, slide the clip towards the passenger side, pull the gear up and out with the cable attached. If one of them is burnt up start there by replacing it. Install the starter and connect the starter cable. Remove the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on. Having a bed on the back to haul around your belongings was only a bonus. Swoboda 11 Dec 96 At one time, a special 2 piece seal with a special tool was common for repairing leaking rear main seals.
The plug is the same size and shape as the drain plug in the bottom of the case. I am assuming you have the driveshaft out. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. I would recommend replacing the whole unit as one as that is the way they normally come from the parts store. If that is the case it can be replaced, I have tried fixing the bushes but nothing has worked for me. Remove the cross member that lies under the transmission tail. Mar 13, 2010 Hi: The basic process to change that pulley is to first loosen and remove the serpentine belt.
Once the oil pump is un-bolted, just let it fall into the pan. Assemble in reverse order, fill tranny with appropriate lubricant. Some of the trannys do not have the fill plug feature. If you have an electronic 4x4 then there is one more plug. Jun 23, 2009 On the Inside of the Engine Compartment you will find the Routing Sticker for the Belt to Reinstall. Right now you should be looking at a bare transmission mounted to the engine block and a cross member supporting the transmission. I changed the radiator cap already and just making my way around the situation.
Turn the fly wheel each time you remove one of the torque converter bolts so you can access the next one. If the thermostat is installed upside down, the engine will overheat. With the engine jacked up you can un-bolt the oil pan, and the oil pump. Your vehicle is probably out of warranty and a trustworthy independent is probably your best bet. Make sure the spring keeper releases or improper belt tension will occur. Fit the new belt all the way around the pulleys, using your previous sketched layout of the belt th paas a guide, but leave the tensioner pulley until last. You can save yourself a lot of money and it takes only a couple of hours to complete.
All of Chilton's online content for the 1990 Ford F-150 is updated monthly, so you'll have the most recent information on hand for any Do-It-Yourself project. I've used Xacto knife for this, just make sure it's clean and smooth. A number of different bed lengths were available as well, including both a short great for urban living and long great for the farm bed. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. The tension assembly is attached to the engine block itself and there is a notch in the block for the tension spring to go into when you put it back on. Similar to most automatic overdrive transmissions of that time, this transmission incorporates a case of aluminum construction, a fully electronic valve body and a lockup torque converter. Start by taking out the hardest to get at bolts first and work your way around.
This should have a Bolt Head Showing. Position the oil pan against the cylinder block and install the attaching bolts. Standing facing your truck cylinders are numbered 1 to 6. Install new side gaskets on the oil pan with oil-resistant sealer. Then the fan screws out of the clutch. Install the inlet tube and screen assembly on the oil pump with a new gasket. If applying pressure to the damper creates a change in engine noise then it is likely that the bushes are worn.