I stuck my finger in there and there is fluid right up to the bottom of the hole. I guess I'll ask at the dealership and take a look at my haynes manual. If you see any large chunks of metal, that is a sign you have internal damage somewhere in the transfer case and you'll need to rebuild it. I forgot to drain the case so I made a big mess. Start with an 18mm socket ratchet or wrench and remove the drain plug on the back of the transfer case. Oil Change Engine Oil Type 5W30 Engine Oil Capacity 4.
I felt no difference between the 2, or 3 if you include the stock fluid. Also, is there a specific orientation in which the seal needs to go in? We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person. My output seal is leaking too. My truck is a '90 and my transfer case looks a little different than the one pictured above. So if U don't change it, least check it yearly for proper level. Just like your transmission, the transfer case requires fluid for both lubrication and cooling. New fluid starting to come out of the fill hole.
Take care of your vehicle and it will take care of you. I thought you had to take off the output section and drive out the seal from the inside. The t-case fluid looked particularly nasty. It went in a little easier than it came out. Just inclement weather and rare off roading. I've changed mine twice now! New one for me was like 13 bucks.
The trans fluid is still clean looking and slightly sweet smelling so it has not been changed yet. Loctite applied to drain plug. Is it better, or worse? The notch The Hole I had another person suggest that because I have had that seal replaced in the last year or two that maybe my front seal is leaking causing fluid from my transmission into my t-case and then being pushed out of the rear seal. At some point, something will go wrong. Refer to Propeller Shaft Replacement - Front , to Propeller Shaft Replacement - One Piece , to Propeller Shaft Replacement - Two Piece , or to Propeller Shaft Replacement - Three Piece in Propeller Shaft. So far it's not leaking so I'm happy.
Well, I checked the owner's manual after I got home and it says the transfer case fluid change recommendation is 97,500 miles. Be prepared as the fluid will rush out quickly. I just put the funnel right up there. I may get a hair up my ass to replace tomorrow night but we'll see. If you drive in dusty areas, tow a trailer, idle or drive at low speeds for extended periods or drive for short periods less than four miles at a time in below freezing temperatures, even smaller intervals are recommended.
The leak appears to be coming from between the tailshaft housing and the seal it's self. The coolant was definitely ready. Not like it is going to break the bank and like I said, it is super easy to do. Now you want to refill it. You then take the new one and of course lube it. Here are some of the common issues complained about.
You basically just want to fill it until fluid starts coming out of the fill hole and that's usually, well this take up to just a little over five pints which is two and a half quartz. Maybe I'll have to make something to pound it in straight and try again. Last truck had more miles, harder life, and I never changed the fluid in that. Mine is a 14 Gmc sierra 4x4 Slt 5. Once fluid starts coming out, give it one more slow pump.
I replaced my seal today. Probably could have done that sooner as it looked bad, and had some minor electrolysis. These 2002s, this has the push button four wheel drive. I threw my receipt away and I forget how much it cost, but it was priced similarly to other premium full synthetic fluids. Remove the propeller shaft yoke.