We bought it for its clever 3rd row seat and good handling. This brings me to the engine, it is way to small to function in this van, and I'm not looking to go fast! Now for the back it will look alot like the front with the execption of the oil cap. I traded it in after a year because it had 194,000 miles on it and I needed something four wheel drive due to where I live. Still a tough job working under car but is a lot easier than diconnecting mounts. Now the motor is rolled forward enough so you can reach and remove the plugs. Several years ago a coil block failed and we feared the engine was dying, but I was able to replace it and the engine has run well since. Like the other reviews, if you are not planning on packing this van up.
Do yourself a favor and spend the 2 bucks on some anti-seize. I had to change mine on a 1990 and it's the same for yours. First of all, the engine is not strong enough for the van it only has 160hp. Once you get the coil pack out of the way it easier to get the plugs. You need to pull them off.
This will not be easy. Reverse the process to install them. You will find the spark plug under them which requires the small spark plug socket and extension. It has survived two learning drivers and hauling their friends and has been safe and reliable. Get some needle nose pliers and pull the rubber hoses out. Noww pull out the the thing the bolts were bolting down, that woul … d be the coils. Now look slightly down and to the vechicals left or your right.
Have removed middle row seats and folded down rear seat to enable sleeping in the van. This was the first time working on the truck and it took me 2 hours. Mazdas are not very quite on the road, but this was a base model. Unsnap the frame from the bottom. This will allow you to remove the front two bolts. It has almost 180k miles and I never want to replace it! I slid them out and moved them to the side This was also unpluged from the intake tube Unplug this, its above the intake tube.
You shouldn't need any gaskets as long as you are careful when pulling the top plastic manifold off. If I recall correctly you will need a 10mm socket to get these out. The only complaint was the rust on the wheel wells, but eveything worked well even at the day I traded it in with almost 200,000 miles on it! Before continuing mark each of the four cables with a number 1-4, left to right so you don't get these mixed up. Be careful not to pull on the wire itself or you'll be replacing them also. The van looks beautiful from the outside and from the inside.
Use some anti siege on the threads. The 4-speed auto transmission in the van needed to be rebuilt at around 110k, which is fairly typical. I'm going for 300K unless something major happens. You can back another vehicle up with in reach and hook up to it via tow hook of back bumper or even use a tree. It carried us on many family vacations, sat us all comfortably and safely. It remains trusted and dependable after 12 years. Radiator was replaced around 100k.
I will try to explain the best i can but i warn ppl right now, I'm inclined physically not mentally. The front three plugs are easy to get to - just remove the black plastic cover over the engine block 3 screws and they're right there but deeply recessed in the block. Hopefully this is the cause of the low mpg or else i will put a wood block under the gas pedal so the wife dont use all 200hp. Rear tailgate and both sliding doors all manual have been completely trouble free--quite a different story compared to what owners of other brand minivans with power doors share. You will need a couple of socket extensions - I used a 6 and 10 in. You will need some socket extensions and a spark plug socket with rubber catch inside.
You have to b … e an octopus to do all this by yourself. Once again you are working blind, but it is not hard at all. Spark plugs: remove the spark plug end of the lead, use a screw driver and rag to place down the whole to mop up any oil that may be down there. Cylinder 6 has misfired is there a diagram for this where is the plug and coil located. And you can't sit on the seat while doing this either. I put the car on jack stands front and back.
Trasnfer the wireloom from the old wires to the new wires only if origional wires, you mat not have a wire loom. This is just a guide on how I did mine. Replace one of the bolts and nuts back into its mounting position one on upper left of motor and hook the ratcheting side to it, then place the other hook on another solidly attached item. It is a rectangular box low right side with 3 bolts. Properly constructed just like the initial unit that came with. Mazda or Ford dealership will have the stuff.